Low Yields but Excellent Quality
September 2024
Jura
Visiting Domaine Rolet in the charming village of Arbois on a sunny Friday, mid-way through the grape harvest without a cloud in the sky, one would imagine that spirits are high, as vintage is in full swing. We joined the picking team in the appellation of L’Etoile, specifically at « En Novalet » a lieu dit in the village of Plainoiseau, and sat down for the Estate’s usual 4-course lunch for the harvesters. A convivial ambiance and great delight at the morning’s qualitative grape harvest was instantly perceived. Smiles everywhere.
However, this small moment belies the reality of the tough Jura growing season that Domaine Rolet endured. Millésime 2024 will remain a challenging memory for the collective Jura vignerons who were subject to all that Mother Nature could throw at them – Frost in April, an exceptionally rainy Spring & Summer, and the daily battle against mildew. General losses of the Jura vineyards for 2024 are between 60-70%, of which Domaine Rolet also predicts. Sometimes even higher for some producers.
Rolet fought the battle well with their teams, led by Vineyard manager Louis Morel, dedicated to managing these viticulture issues, and their vineyards have produced about one-third of a “normal” annual production – and we can attest that what has survived is of excellent quality!
2023-2024 Climate in Review
January 9th, 2024 – Snowy day at Domaine Rolet – le Vernois, Côtes du Jura
Apart from a few snow-capped days at the start of the year, overall it was a rather mild, very humid and wet winter season. January only saw a few nights of negative temperatures, and by the time of the Spring Equinox on the 21st of March, Arbois was already experiencing days over 20°C, rather warm for the start of the growing season. A sure sign of an early BudBreak.
Then came the dangerous mornings around April’s Full Moon, specifically April 23rd, when temperatures went negative, below 0°C, and the well-advanced vines that had already started bud burst were affected by a frost episode, which hit the Poulsard and Chardonnay especially hard.
Le Vernois – Côtes du Jura. The morning’s result after the morning frost of April 23, 2024. Black leaves and young shoots have been frosted on the vines.
One month later: Both photos date from May 23, 2024 visit
Photo Left – Chardonnay vineyard affected by FROST episode April 23-24
Photo Right – Healthy vineyard not affected by Frost
And then it rained. And it rained. And it rained some more throughout the month of May, leading the Savagnin vines to abort the development of future inflorescence (filage) rather than developing into flowers. Happily, for the buds that survived, a nice sunny break timed with the flowering period in June. But the rains continued in July, and operation “Battle Mildew” became the prime focus of the viticulture team – especially challenging for an Estate in Organic conversion.
As you see from the two comparative graphs below – 2023 vs 2024 – the Montesserin vineyards have nearly reached their yearly total of rain for the year, and compared to the same period as 2023, 2024 is already nearly double the the water received the previous year. Perfect conditions for Mildew.
Arbois Rain Episodes – Comparative 2023 vs 2024 – ALMOST DOUBLE in 2024!
2024 Vintage
As every year, all grapes are Estate only, and were hand harvested with a team of 60 hand harvesters.
Vintage began at on September 12th with the Poulsard, a native Jura grape that due to its thin skins, and quite sensitive to the impending rains showers predicted during those early days of the harvest.
Pinot Noir followed, and like the Poulsard, was sent down Rolet’s new optical sorting table – which is on trial for this harvet – that both destemmed all the grapes, and removed the undesired berries. A week later, the Trousseau à la Dame harvest followed during our visit, and it was impressive to witness the qualitative work of this optical sorting machine. In total, 11.5 days of harvest for 2024.
All Red Grapes have been Destemmed for 2024.
Left: Trousseau Caviar – Fermentation will start with indigenous yeasts in Stainless Steel tanks
Right: Vigneronne Chloé Weber inspects the results of the optical sorting machine
Left – Pinot Noir juice Right – Poulsard juice
Cédric kindly shared some of the precious Pinot Noir and Poulsard juices that had just kicked off their fermentations – juicy cranberry, pomegranate, cinnamon, rosebuds, iron, and rosemary thyme tea infusions composed the complex aromatic profiles.
The tasting of the Chardonnay 2024 juicss was equally pleasurable on the palate. Following Cédric to the tanks, the Chardonnay cellar was perfumed with ever-present notes of hay, chamomile, acacia honey, dried pineapple and confit lemon with deep yellow hues. Fermentation had yet to begin, but the acidity was well-perceived all the same – crisp, tart and mouth-watering! Savagnin juices nearly mirrored the same aromas and flavours as the Chardonnay, with the ever-present sweet-hay notes easily identified in the bouquet, and a level of electric acidity on the palate that only Savagnin can deliver.
As mentioned, quantities of vintage 2024 are one-third of a “normal” Jura harvest at Domaine Rolet, therefore the decision was made to not produce Crémant in 2024, neither Vin de Paille.
A delighted Cédric Ducoté tasting this year’s Chardonnay & Savagnin.
FOCUS: Château Chalon "Puits-Saint-Pierre"
Domaine Rolet’s Château Chalon parcel in lieu-dit “Puits-Saint-Pierre”
Domaine Rolet wine enthusiasts will be delighted to know that the estate has decided to exclusively release a very small quantity of their extremely rare Château Chalon Vin Jaune, parcel in the lieu-dit “Puits-Saint-Pierre”.
With only 0,32ha of vines, nestled in the amphitheatre of the prestigious Château Chalon lieu dit Puits-Saint-Pierre, this parcel is very precious to Domaine Rolet. The Savagnin vines are situated at about 200m in elevation, planted on 45% aspect slopes, just below the village of Château Chalon, at a South West Exposure. There is an impressive structure of ancient limestone columns next to the vines, giving indication to the presence of calcaire stones integrated into the grey marne soils upon which the vines are planted. A soil perfectly suited to growing Savagnin!
Due to these steep slopes, this is a tricky growing area, certainly for physically challenging viticultural practices, but especially difficult when mother nature decides to release endless rain showers as we have in 2024. Landslides can happen, as was the case in 2021, when vines also slid down the hillside. All the winegrowers in this appellation pay close attention to all aspects of erosion. The grassed rows practised at Domaine Rolet help towards preventing erosion.
Bird nets have been installed to protect the grapes from the hungry winged neighbours that reside in the trees just above the parcel. All of these Savagnin grapes are designated to make Château Chalon Vin Jaune. As a reminder, the Château Chalon appellation can only produce Vin Jaune, and Vin Jaune made from 100% Savagnin grapes aged for a minimum of 6 years and three months in barrels without topping up, i.e. without the addition of regular wine to compensate for the angel’s share.
Ripe Savagnin grape cluster – perfect golden hue with black freckles indicates it is ready to be harvested!
Left: Marne gris soils with calcaire (limestone) stones littered throughout. The exposure of this soil ridge is due to landslides during 2021’s very wet season of rain showers.
Right: Cédric in the Puits-Saint-Pierre lieu dit, at the base of the village of Château Chalon proudly showing a bottle of Vin Jaune from this incredibly small parcel.
JURA WINE: Ten Years On
There has been no equivalent wine region in France, maybe even the world, that has seen such an explosion of interest and curiosity like the Jura over the past decade, and we can largely thank English author Wink Lorch for her work in her book Jura Wine that has contributed to this global popularity.
This past winter, the author embarked upon a tour of the appellation to make an updated companion text, titled “JURA WINE: TEN YEARS ON“, with both insights into the new producers, and updates to the historic estates that had undergone large changes of direction during this period.
On a snowy day in the Jura in January 2024, she came to Domaine Rolet to meet Cédric Ducoté, who gave her a tour of the estate’s vineyards, showing her all the work that has been done since 2018 to renew the vineyards and, in particular, the conversion of the estate to organic farming for every new hectare planted. Today, almost all the AOC Arbois vineyards are organic, covering 20 hectares.
The estate continues to promote its work and the quality of its wines internationally.
Wine Currently Available at Rolet
Crémants
Crémant du Jura Blanc Brut – 50% Chardonnay, 10% Savagnin, 40% Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Poulsard
The vines are located in the Arbois and Côtes du Jura AOCs. Harvested exclusively by hand, with whole bunches pressed. Aged on laths for a minimum of 12 months.
Crémant du Jura Rosé Brut 2018 – 60% Poulsard, 20% Trousseau, 10% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay
The vineyards are located in the AOC Arbois and Côtes du Jura. Harvest 100% manual with pressing the grapes in wholes bunches.
Crémant Blanc de Noirs 2018 – 85% Pinot Noir 15% Poulsard.
The vineyards are located in the AOC Arbois and Côtes du Jura. Only manual harvest. Bottled in Spring 2019, with now over 49 months on lattes.
Crémant du Jura “Coeur du Chardonnay” – 100% Chardonnay.
The vineyards are located in the AOC Arbois and Côtes du Jura. Harvested exclusively by hand, with whole bunches pressed. Selection of the best juices. Crémant Coeur de Chardonnay 2016, aged for 5 years on lattes.
Floral White Wines
Arbois Savagnin Ouillé – 100% Savagnin
Selected in our parcels from Montigny-lès-Arsures located in the little town of “Gaillard” and “Château Gimont”, marls sols by excellence. Manuals harvest, pneumatic pressing, static cold settling, Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations in barrels, then aged for 9 months in barrel.
This district is named by the 5 hills surounding it and because of the fossilized stars called « Pentacrines ». We can find them in the soils, motsly south in the parcel « En Novalet » town of Plainoiseau. The soils are mostly composed with grey marls from Lias and cover up by a thin loamy scree. Manuals harvest and sorting. Fermentation and ageing for 12 month in oak barrels.
This wine comes from a blend of plots planted on the hillside at the place called ‘En Chagnon’, located in the commune of Montigny-lès-Arsures. Leant against a limestone ledge, the soil is essentially composed of loose gravels revealing grey marls of Lias offering richness and minerality. Manual harvesting and sorting. Ageing of 9 months in oak barrels including 30% in new barrels
Côtes du Jura Chardonnay – 100% Chardonnay
Red Wines
The vineyards are planted in Montigny-les-Arsures in the parcels of «Chagnon» and «Gaillard» in the down of slopes, which are composed of silty clay covering up Lias marls. Manuals harvest and sorting. Macération and fermentation for 15 day in tank. Natural yeast. Agee in tanks for 12 months.
Arbois Trousseau – 100% Trousseau
The vineyards are located in Montigny-lès-Arsures on the slopes of «Chagnon» and «Leuvrin», same in Arbois with «Montesserin». Exposed mostly in west and south, the soils are rich in iridescent marl and chaille clays, favoured lands of Trousseau. Manual harvest and sorting. 100% destemmed. Maceration and fermentation in tanks. 15 days of maceration. Natural yeasts. Malolactic fermentation carried out. Aged for 9 months : 50% in barrels and 50% in tanks.
Arbois Rouge Tradition – 60% Pinot Noir, 35% Trousseau, 5% Poulsard
The vineyards are located in Arbois and Montigny. Soils are mainly composed of red marl and rich gravel. Manual harvest and sorting. Maturing in barrels separately for 12 months to preserve the character of each grape variety then assembly 3 months before bottling.
Oxidatif Wines
Cotes du Jura Expression du Terroir – 70% Chardonnay & 30% Savagnin ‘sous voile’
Parcels located in south of the little town called «Vrihou» on the slopes of Voiteur. The soils are composed in majority with grey marls, few strata of thin limestones and fossils. Manuals harvest and sorting. Ageing sous voile in oak barrels for 3 years for the Savagnin. The Chardonnay is ageing 3 years in barrels ouillés.
Arbois Tradition – 50% Chardonnay & 50% Savagnin ‘sous voile’
Parcels from «Château Gimont» and «Sous le Viaduc» located in the village of Montigny-lès-Arsures. The vines are planted directly on the grey marls of Lias, very rare on the AOC Arbois. Manual harvesting and sorting. “Sous-Voile” ageing, in oak barrels for 4 years for the Savagnin. Chardonnay is aged 4 years in topped up large barrels. Blended 3 months before bottling.
Côes du Jura Tradition – 50% Chardonnay & 50% Savagnin ‘sous voile’
Parcels located in the litlle town of « Vrihou » on the slopes of Voiteur, facing south. The soils are composed in majority with grey marls, few strata of thin limestone and fossils. Manuals harvest and sorting. Ageing ‘sous voile’, for the Savagnin it’s 4 years in oak barrels. It’s 4 years too for the chardonnay but ouillé in barrels. Blended 3 months before bottling.
Côtes du Jura Savagnin – 100% Savagnin
Parcels located in the little town of « Vrihou » on the slopes of Voiteur, facing south.The soils are composed in majority with grey marls, few strata of thin limestone and fossils. Manuals harvest and sorting. Ageing sous voile in oak barrels for 5 years.
Arbois Vin Jaune – 100% Savagnin sous voile
Plots are in «Chagnon» located in Montigny-Le-Arsures, exposed South-West. Manual harvesting and sorting. Late ripening grape variety, it is harvested manually at the end of the harvest to the maximum of its maturity. Sous-voile ageing of 6 years and 3 months minimum in oak barrels.
Macvin Blanc du Jura
The decree of the AOC involves the use of Marc du Jura aged at least 14 months in oak barrels for the production of Macvin.
Once integrated into the unfermented grape juices (musts), the Macvin obtained will have to be aged for at least for 10 months in oak barrels.
Our Macvinis age for more than 48 months with Vieux Marc (aged in oak barrels for more than 6 years) blended with Chardonnay and Savagnin musts. It is this long ageing period that ensures such precise integration of the sugars in the must and the alcohols in the marc.
There is also a red macvin made from Poulsard grapes.
Vin de Paille – 37,5cl
20% Poulsard, 40% Chardonnay, 40% Savagnin
Vineyard planted in the high of slope on Arbois (slope of Montesserin) and Montigny. We make a selection of the most beautiful grapes, harvested by hand, and then let them dry for more than six weeks, which allows a natural sugar concentration. After this, the grapes are pressed, a slow fermentation is over when the wine reaches 15 to 16% of alcohol. It ages for almost 3 years in oak barrels.
Vieux Marc du Jura – 70cl
VINIFICATION & AGEING
Our Vieux Marc of Jura is obtained after distillation of the solid parts of our grapes (marc).
It is aged in oak barrels for 20 to 25 years, which places it in the category Vieux Marc of Jura.
Vieille Fine du Jura – 70cl
Our Vieille Fine du Jura is obtained after distillation of wines. It is aged in oak barrels for 20 to 25 years.
«Powerful & Refined»
