-June 17-
This week begins with a focus on the Champagne region, where spring is in full bloom in the heart of the vineyard nestled in the Côte des Bar,a terroir more similar to Chablis than Épernay. Guided by Delphine Brulez, we explored her sunlit vines to observe the current viticultural work and closely monitor the evolution of the vegetation.
We had the privilege of admiring an exceptional winegrowing landscape, shaped by a remarkable diversity of soils. In 2024, the estate commissioned an in-depth study of its terroirs to better understand the specificities of each plot.
Above : map ordered by the estate showing the soil composition of each parcel.
At the top of the slopes, the vines thrive in a small area where shallow soils rest directly on an almost exposed Portlandian geological formation. This challenging context naturally limits vine vigor, reducing productivity. Delphine carefully adjusts the crop load based on vine vigor to maintain the plant’s balance. Today, these vines, which once produced little, now show improved yields.
Mid-slope, the soils lie over Kimmeridgian subsoils composed of alternating marls and limestones rich in marine fossils, especially small shells. Here, the estate boasts a stunning 8-hectare single-block vineyard, spanning an elevation from 200 to 300 meters. For a winemaker passionate about geology, this is a true opportunity to work plots located across different Kimmeridgian strata, from lower to upper levels, and to tailor her approach parcel by parcel to suit each vine’s needs.
Two sections of reconstituted soil from the Champagne Louise Brison estate plot
Picture left: lower slope, colluvium on grey clay
Picture right: mid-slope
Thanks to the detailed geological study, Delphine solved the mystery of a mid-slope plot that consistently lagged behind others in development. A high concentration of clay was hindering root growth. By adjusting the crop load to the plot’s low vigor and enriching the soil with compost, the vines developed thicker wood and healthy nitrogen reserves, producing fewer, but higher-quality, grape clusters.
A crucial moment in the vineyard
In the vineyard, it’s a key moment: all the vines are in bloom. The Chardonnay has nearly completed flowering and is entering the fruit set phase, while the Pinot Noir is in full bloom. One trend has become evident over recent years: harvests are occurring earlier, no longer 100 days after flowering, but more like 80 to 90 days later. This year’s harvest is expected to begin in early September.
Committed to sustainable viticulture that respects life, Delphine practices natural spontaneous cover cropping between the vine rows. This plant cover helps retain soil moisture and nourishes the land. At the end of spring, it is rolled to crimp the grass stems. As they dry, they form a natural mulch that protects the soil. She also produces her own compost at the top of a plot, using a rich mix of cow manure, valerian, and decomposing pruned wood, aimed at deeply regenerating the soil.
Plant cover before and after rolling
Compost made by Delphine from a mixture rich in cow dung, valerian and decomposing prunings.
In the cellar : defining stage for blending
In the cellars, a decisive stage is underway: wine aging trials, a crucial step that shapes the wines’ style and identity.
Indeed, the champagnes of Louise Brison stand apart from those of the major traditional houses. Here, each year’s production consists only of vintage cuvées, in a style closer to still wines than classic champagnes. All wines are vinified and aged in barrels, lending them a beautiful complexity. The result is gastronomic champagnes, designed to pair with an entire meal.
To best express her terroir, Delphine collaborates with the Mercurey cooperage, which supplies her with oak barrels sourced from forests near the Côte des Bar. Two origins are currently being tested: oak from the Chablis forest and from the Châtillon-sur-Marne forest.
For this trial, Delphine takes Chardonnay musts from the top, middle, and bottom of the slope. Each lot is split in two and aged in different barrel types. Chardonnay was the natural choice for this test, as its finesse and aromatic neutrality allow the wood’s influence to come through clearly without being masked.
After nine months of barrel aging, we had the chance to taste the results alongside her. This year, barrels from the Châtillon forests offered the most expressive profile. During our tastings, both the nose and palate revealed intense aromatic expressions.
Delphine plans to continue this experiment over several vintages to refine her barrel-aging choices.
Second tasting: pinot noir barrel trials
A second tasting focused this time on Pinot Noir, comparing the first and second fractions of the tête de cuvée.
Champagne pressing is strictly regulated. The standard unit is the marc, a pressing of 4,000 kg of grapes yielding 26.5 hectoliters of juice. This is typically done in two or three pressings. The first gentle pressing, called the cuvée or tête de cuvée, yields about 20.5 hl of the finest, clearest juice, high in sugar and acidity but low in tannins. Subsequent pressings, called the taille, extract more minerals, pigments, and tannins by exerting more pressure and drawing from skins, seeds, and pulp.
Delphine goes a step further by dividing each pressing into four fractions, specifically splitting the tête de cuvée into two separate parts to achieve greater precision between the very first free-run juice and the last part of that pressing. Each fraction is vinified and aged separately in barrels for nine months, allowing for more nuanced blending later.
We tasted the Pinot Noir barrels corresponding to:
The first 10 hectoliters of the tête de cuvée (initial juice)
The next 10 hectoliters of the tête de cuvée (subsequent juice)
The barrels were markedly different, the first juices were more aromatic, while the second had more structure. This distinction further refines the blending process. The tasting provided deeper insight into the quality of each Pinot Noir fraction, helping guide future blending decisions with precision.
Upcoming work and outlooking for 2024
Racking is scheduled for this week.
As for the 2024 vintage, production is confirmed despite low yields. It is expected to look like the 2001 vintage in profile. Due to the very limited quantity, only one main cuvée will be produced: À l’Aube de la Côte des Bar, with a small volume of Chardonnay as a complement.